Great watches, for a not-so-great year
With the new year finally here, there’s no better time than now, to start planning for the year ahead of us. Whether it’s how you’re gonna achieve those new year resolutions or to be more productive at work and life or even, mapping out your next watch purchase. But before we look forward, we first should look back at what was 2020 to be able to better plan for 2021. As horrendous and terrible as 2020 was, and as much as we never want to re live or even look back at it again, 2020 did give us some pretty damn good watches. Specifically, Japanese watches. With examples from Seiko, Casio, and Citizen, we’ll be looking at some of the best watches from these 3 giants that were released last year, or even earlier before but are just too good to miss.
Now, granted, its more than Seiko, Casio and Citizen that offered some of the finest watches from Japan last year. And as much as we’d love to look into them and discuss them, they aren’t exactly the most attainable watches to most of us. That being said, we’d like to honorably mention the Credor Eichi II in blue enamel, a stunning blue dial variant of the incredibly impressive and astronomically expensive Eichi II. The Grand Seiko Kintaro Hattori limited edition, celebrating the 160th birthday of Seiko founder; Kintaro Hattori with a stunning platinum cased timepiece housing an immaculately finished 9r02 hand winding caliber that is finished by Seiko’s state of the art micro artist studio. And lastly, from a lesser-known name to the public but revered in the watch industry; Hajime Asaoka’s Kurono Tokyo Chronograph 1. An art-deco style 38mm chronograph in a bi-compax style layout powered by Seiko’s very own NE86A self-winding chronograph movement. Offering immense reliability and an affordable glimpse and experience in to one of Japan’s most coveted watchmakers.
Now, with the big guns out of the way, let’s get on to the more attainable and equally pretty things that came out of Japan last year. And in no particular order, here are our top 10 Japanese watches from 2020.
CITIZEN KUROSHIO '64 NK0008-85L MEN'S LIMITED-EDITION WATCH
When I first saw the watches from the Kuroshio 64 line that rolled into our office, it was love at first sight. In fact, I liked them so much, I immediately bought one the following day; the cream dialed NK0001-17X. But today, we’ll be taking a look at the much scarcer limited edition NK0008-85L. The Kuroshio 64 line is named after a collaboration project between Citizen, the Japanese Maritime Defense Force, and the Tokyo University of Marine Science and Technology to study the flow of the currents along the sea surrounding Japan.
Citizen created Japan’s first water resistant watch, the Parawater, and saw this project as a great way to test as well as market their brand-new watch. It’s a rather endearing tale that I shan’t get too much into, but what we’ve ended up with in today’s reissue is a faithful representation of the original but with modern touches; such as a 41mm case, automatic caliber and of course a beautifully patterned dial meant to mimic the patterns of the sea.
But despite all of these updates, the Kuroshio 64 NK0008-85L is still a very nicely vintage styled timepiece, with applied arrow shaped indexes, dauphine hands, a box shaped crystal and a slim brushed case. It gives an incredibly traditional wearing experience of a three-handed dress watch. The stainless-steel bracelet certainly adds more versatility to the otherwise dressy piece, and the inclusion of lume pips along the markers and hands harks back nicely to the watch’s rather nautical origins.
Overall, if you’re looking for something with a little bit more history and heritage, with excellent finishing, attention to detail and pedigree, you’ll be hard-pressed to find something better than the Kuroshio 64, especially at this price point.
Key Features
- An elegant, vintage design for an affordable price
- Reliable workhorse automatic caliber
- Protected by immensely durable mineral crystal glass
- Movement Type - Miyota automatic
- Materials - Stainless- steel
- Water Resistance - 5 bars
- Case Size - 41mm
SEIKO PROSPEX MARINEMASTER 300 SLA023J1 MEN'S WATCH
If the watch to have is a dive watch, then the dive watch to have would be a Rolex Submariner, but even if you had $11,000 or so to spend at your local AD, you can’t have one. A surge in demand over the years, resulting in massive price jumps, and ever-growing waiting lists have relegated this incredible timepiece to be nothing more than just a passing fancy across the jeweler’s window.
But just because you can’t get the default doesn’t mean you can’t get something else that is as interesting, and maybe, just maybe a little more special. Introducing the Seiko Marinemaster SLA023J1, a commemorative limited edition to the first model from 1968, Seiko’s reference 6159. Powered by Seiko’s Caliber 8L35 and beating at 28,800VPH (4Hz), the Marinemaster pays proper tribute to the original 1968 hi-beat drive Ref. 6159-7001 and then some. Though not equipped with the high-beat 36,000VPH (5Hz) 8L55 caliber, the 8L35 is still a force to be reckoned with, with a respectably high frequency of 28,800VPH (4Hz).
The 8L35 is an undecorated version of the Grand Seiko's 9S55 caliber, with 26 jewels, 50 hours of power reserve and an accuracy of -10 to +15 seconds per day is a proper demonstration of Japanese watchmaking prowess. Coming with a 44.3mm mono-bloc case (missing the traditional case-back where the movement is installed from the front), it ensures rugged durability and water resistance of up to 300m. The case has also been hardened with a super-hard (DLC) coating making it more scratch-resistant and wear-resistant. It is certainly tougher than your run-off-the-mill diver. A sapphire crystal with a dual-sided anti-reflective protects the proud blue dial and it features a knurled crown at 4 O'clock (a common and recognizable staple in Seiko's divers). Granted at over $4,000 this is certainly one of the most expensive watches on our list, but then again, it offers fantastic history and craftsmanship from a brand renowned for making watches for over a century and is still properly brilliant at it today.
Key Features
- Caliber Number – 8L35
- Movement Type - Japanese Automatic
- Materials - Stainless steel
- Crystal- Sapphire
- Water Resistance - 300 meters
- Case Size – 3mm
SEIKO PRESAGE SSA395J1 MEN’S WATCH
The Seiko Presage line has always been known fondly as the ‘Baby Grand Seiko’ and for good reason. Similar to what its big brother has done for the luxury watch market, the line provides unparalleled quality and finishing for a relatively reasonable price. The Seiko Presage line is the closest thing we can ever get to ‘affordable luxury’, a term that is an oxymoron in itself considering that what makes luxury is a certain level of inaccessibility, but this watch is an exception to the rule.
And this is the exception--the Seiko Presage SSA395J1 Zen Garden. The Japanese watch, keeping to its namesake, with its stark white textured dial set against satin-brushed and polished indexes gives it a minimalist and, well, Zen vibe to its overall design. The dial captures the magic of the bright light on a clear winter’s day, with its bright white and textured dial set against dark accents.
The watch is powered by Seiko’s in-house caliber 4R57a movement, featuring a centrally-mounted power reserve indicator (which can be read along the periphery of the dial), a date sub-dial and of course the time, together with a 42-hour power reserve and a smooth 21,600VPH (3Hz) frequency. But it is unquestionably the dial that is the watch’s party piece, with beautifully finished and applied diamond shaped hour markers set on the stark white snow-like dial with Grand Seiko-esque lance-shaped hands sweeping gracefully across, albeit not with the same execution (as the difference in price obliges).
For under a thousand dollars, this might easily be the best luxury watch you can get, and is probably the best representation of what the Seiko Presage line stands for.
Key features
- High polished stainless-steel case and bracelet
- Timeless dressy design with a modern twist
- Eye-catching textured opaline white dial
- Hardlex crystal
- Dependable and rugged automatic caliber with a decorated rotor
SEIKO PROSPEX SPB121J1 MEN'S WATCH
No list of the best Japanese watches that money can buy these days can’t be complete without mentioning the Seiko green Alpinist. In fact, I’d like to think that most of you would probably cry foul if it didn’t appear on the list, so here it is. The original Seiko Alpinist is a Japanese watch that ticks a lot of boxes for a vast majority of the watch-wearing public. It’s readily available, reliable, robust, attractive and affordable. It’s the perfect fit and one could call it the Goldilocks of watches.
This, of course, has made it hugely popular in its hay day. With 3 models having been released at the time, but one stood out in particular--the SARB017 with a sunburst green dial and gold markers. But since all models have gone out of production, resale prices have been driven sky high, and once the stocks on the second-hand market dry out, they’ll be gone forever.
When Seiko announced a reissue of the Alpinist with 3 new models that sat nicely in the Prospex Line, what Seiko has done essentially, is taken everything that made the Alpinist great and made them better. The old Alpinist was powered by the Caliber 6R15, the new one is powered by the 6R35, giving it a whopping 70 hours of power reserve.
The sapphire crystal has been given a cyclops lens (controversial to some, I know) and an anti-reflective coating on the inner surface. On top of that, there is an exhibition case-back for you to enjoy the 6R35 caliber in greater detail. However, not much has changed visually on the new Alpinist SPB121J1, aside from the Seiko Prospex “X” branding on the dial. It’s a small touch that shows everyone that this watch is more than just a pretty face, it means serious business.
The watch hailed from a line originally intended for Japanese mountaineers back in 1961-1964, called the Laurel Alpinist. It wasn’t until 2006 did Seiko unveil the horological phenomenon which is the Alpinist, we all know and love today. And now they’re back once again, and the wait was certainly worth it. The Alpinist was a watch that struck a chord with the watch community, even under the shadow of the divers like the Sumo, Turtle, Monster and Tuna. And for good reason, the watch is a serious tool watch, with 200m of water resistance, bright luminescent on the hands and 12 markers, as well as an internal rotating bezel which functions as a compass. Yet with all of this, the watch, thanks to its 39mm diameter and proportions, was incredibly versatile. It could be worn hiking, or to a gala dinner with a suit, or even just as an everyday beater and it would still sit comfortably at home on your wrist.
Key Features
- High polished and brushed stainless-steel case and bracelet
- Timeless dressy design with a modern twist
- Eye-catching black patterned dial
- Extremely durable sapphire crystal
- Dependable and rugged automatic caliber with a decorated rotor
CITIZEN MECHANICAL NY0111-11E MEN’S WATCH
Dive watches are a dime a dozen these days, and for good reason. They’re incredibly well built, very versatile and overall, they’re just really great watches to have. The Fugu NY00111-11E harks back to an era long before us, with vintage design cues from the early history of diving and an added touch of idiosyncrasy unique to the NY line of Promasters.
The principal characteristics are the rather unconventional and rarely seen left-hand crown position at 8 which is meant to prevent inadvertent knocks as well as to provide more ergonomic comfort to the wearer. The bezel is distinctive as well, with alternating smooth and serrated edges allowing for better grip when being operated under water especially with gloved hands. Although the one we’re looking at today comes in the ever-popular Batman colourway, other variations are available as well, though we think this one is probably going to be one of the more popular pieces. Power comes from a Miyota Cal. 8203 a proper workhorse movement with a 45-hour power reserve that beats at a respectable 21,600VPH (3Hz) and offers a useful day-date display as well.
An additional little attention to detail that I do find myself enjoying on this Japanese watch is the printing of the N.D Limits scale on the strap of the timepiece, cementing the fact that it is, indeed a true professional tool. All in all, I think the Citizen Promaster NY00111-11E is a fantastic watch, and an even better value proposition as well. At well under $500, it is powered by a reliable Japanese automatic movement, with a great attention to detail and an exceptional level of fit and finish. It may not have the most ground-breaking performance, but it was never meant to in the first place. What Citizen has done with the NY00111-11E Fugu, and the entire Fugu line in general is to bring about more interesting variety into the dive watch market and with some serious competition, performance, and pedigree to boot as well.
Key Features
- Sporty and timeless dive watch design
- Reliable workhorse automatic caliber
- Protected by immensely durable mineral crystal glass
- Movement Type - Miyota automatic
- Materials - Stainless- steel
- Water Resistance - 20 bars
- Case Size - 42mm
CASIO EDIFICE SMARTPHONE LINK ECB-900DB-1CDR MEN'S WATCH
The Edifice line is Casio’s line of sporty and advanced watches that, in my opinion, shares a lot of its design roots with modern motorsports. They’re very much like G-Shocks in their functions and movements, but in a much more refined and sportier package.
The one we’re looking at today is in our opinion the best Edifice model that money can buy the ECB-900DB-1CDR. It is one of Edifice’s more advanced timepieces, featuring the brand’s Bluetooth Smartphone link, a tough solar power system that keeps the device topped up via exposure to any form of light source, as well as a multi-hand multi-function chronograph and timekeeping system too.
All of this technology in a case that is only 8.9mm thin is truly a work of engineering brilliance that is hard to find anywhere else (aside from Citizen perhaps, but that’s at a very different price point). It’s a handsome watch too, the one we have today come with sporty golden accents along the indexes and subdials, contrasting nicely against the otherwise stealthy black dial, and set in a neatly finished, slim stainless-steel case.
If you’re looking to get your hands on a functional, sporty timepiece that won’t break the bank and looks and feels like something much more expensive than it actually is, you’ll certainly find the ECB-900DB-1CDR to fit your bill very nicely.
Key Features
- Sporty and modern racing watch design
- Bluetooth smartphone link
- Multi-function
- Protected by immensely durable mineral crystal glass
- Materials - Stainless- steel
- Water Resistance - 10 bars
SEIKO PROSPEX DIVERS 55th ANNIVERSARY SPB183J1 LIMITED EDITION MEN'S WATCH
One of the finest and most intriguing releases from Seiko last year for the enthusiast is easily this one: the Seiko Prospex Diver’s 55th anniversary SPB183J1 ‘Captain Willard’. It’s a lovely reissue of the 6105 Turtle, the first ever Turtle and one that would become an icon after finding itself strapped on the wrist of Captain Willard in the legendary 1979 movie Apocalypse Now.
Though we have the modern Seiko Turtles now, they’ve never truly given us the feel and design of the original, and though Seiko did reissue it in the form of the SLA033, it was incredibly expensive and a limited edition as well (spoiler alert, we’ll be taking a look at that one later). So, we now finally have an affordable and much more attainable version of the Captain Willard which fans have been waiting for and there’s no denying that it is a fantastic watch. Coming in at 42.7mm in diameter, and featuring that unique flared case/crown-guard design with a domed sapphire crystal to top it off, it’s a fantastic looking piece. Pair that gorgeous design with an in-house 6r35 caliber offering a neat 70 hours of power-reserve and you have one of the best modern dive watch money can buy today. There’re no shortages of icons in Seiko’s line-up: The 62MAS, the Marinemaster 300, the Tuna, The SKX and of course the Turtle. And now, being able to have such an iconic timepiece, that’s incredibly executed at such an affordable price really makes this quite possibly, the bargain of the year.
Key Features
- A timeless utilitarian design with impeccable finishing
- LumiBrite offers a strong glow
- Highly precise 3 hander for impeccable timekeeping
- Protected by immensely durable sapphire crystal glass
- Caliber Number - 6R35
- Movement Type - Japanese Automatic
CASIO G-SHOCK MUDMASTER GG-B100-1A3DR MEN'S WATCH
The G-Shock Mudmaster has always been one of the brand’s toughest watches. With the GG-B100 line, that toughness now comes with even more features and functions. It is available in 4 different colourways: Black, Green, Orange and Blackout (which if you couldn’t tell by the name, has almost every component of the watch in black, except for the silvered pushers). The one we’ll be looking at today is my favourite colourway out of the 4, the GG-B100-1A3DR. It should come as no surprise that I’m not the biggest fan of digital watches; in fact, my collection of only mechanical watches should speak of my tastes and preferences already. I do find myself liking the Mudmaster a lot though, and that’s really saying something. However, the only thing keeping me from pulling out my wallet for this otherwise rather affordable and incredible piece is whether I would actually wear it frequently compared to the ones that’re already in my collection. But whether I’m ready to start going digital over mechanical doesn’t detract from the fact that the Mudmaster is a fantastic watch. The LCD screen may be small for some, but it is highly legible and offers snappy performance too. The hands are useful when needed, and are used to display certain features that we’ll get into later. However, they are usually performing their default time-telling functions most of the time. Casio’s cutting-edge screen and ultra-lightweight carbon means that there’s virtually no compromise between functionality and style.
You get the feeling of immediately wanting to fiddle with the Japanese watch the moment you hold it in your hand. Seriously, those nicely finished and knurled buttons offer such a pleasant feedback and feel that they’re practically begging to be used. And if you couldn’t already tell by the name, the Mudmaster series is all about dust/mud/water protection, and the pushers have all been designed with that in mind. I find the number of pushers on the case (6 of them) to be quite a lot, but that means that you have quicker and easier access to the watch’s functionalities, to which there are many. Now, you can connect a smartphone to this watch with the ‘connect’ button at the 3 o’clock position and using the G-Shock app, allowing you to adjust the watch using the app if you don’t want to use the buttons.
There’s no question that this is a very well-thought-out watch, with the dedicated buttons specifically for things such as the compass. Which really brings the functionality of the watch to the forefront. While many other digital watches may have plenty of features, they aren’t truly useful if they’re backed with a poor or difficult user interface, which the Mudmaster certainly avoids. And Casio, in general, is getting much better at making complex watches with great user interfaces too, making the overall experience of this Mudmaster all the more satisfying too.
Key Features
- Sporty and modern digital field watch design
- Multi-function
- Protected by immensely durable mineral crystal glass and carbon core guard case
- Materials - Resin
- Water Resistance - 20 bars
- Case Size – 55.3mm
CITIZEN BLUE ANGELS PROMASTER NIGHTHAWK BJ7006-56L MEN'S WATCH
So far, we’ve looked back at Citizen’s history of traditionally made watches, now let’s look at where they are now with the modern and innovative ‘Blue angels’ Skyhawk BJ7006-56L. The Citizen Promaster Blue Angels is a dedication to the team and is equipped with radio control signaling to provide precise atomic timekeeping in 43 cities. This Promaster Blue Angels appears in a stainless-steel case measuring 42mm diameter and comes with either a steel bracelet or a leather strap. We review the version with the steel bracelet. The case itself is round with a brushed finish, with massive lugs on either end. The bezel carries yellow accents over the dark blue base with white inscriptions. The dial is also in dark blue. The hour indices are large bars, with Arabic numerals for 12 and 6. The dial is inspired by cockpit instrumentation, with the case having a resemblance to the fuselage.
The dial is rather busy, with a mixture of LCD windows and printed analogue displays with hands to indicate the plethora of information it is required to show. A manually operated mechanical slide rule, makes the bezel look very complicated and alongside the other features include a dual-time function with a 24-hour indicator in a retrograde fashion told with a unique hand that extends across the dial. With both ends featuring an aircraft like embellishment in yellow and white, indicating day and night. The Blue Angels logo also adorns the printed nomenclature on the dial alongside the brand name and model designations. All in all, the BJ7006-56L is a worthy testament to the innovation and technology that Citizen is more well known for these days and is undoubtedly a great addition to anyone’s collection
Key Features
- A masculine and timeless, sporty design at an affordable price
- Protected by immensely durable sapphire crystal glass
- Movement Type - Eco-drive
- Materials - Stainless steel
- Water Resistance - 10 bars
- Case Size - 42mm
SEIKO 5 SPORTS SRPE55K1 MEN'S WATCH
The 2019 Seiko 5 Sports (known more fondly as the 5kx) line has been rather polarizing, to say the least. But then again coming in as the modern replacement for the coveted and unfortunately discontinued affordable mechanical dive watch that is the SKX is a tough act to follow. It gives us things that enthusiasts want such as an updated modern movement with hacking and hand winding (which the SKX didn’t have) while doing away with the features that made the SKX so loved in the first place.
An ISO rated case and threaded crown that a true diver should have, the new 5kx isn’t so much a dive watch as it is a dive-style watch. And that is enough to divide enthusiasts in their opinions and feelings towards this timepiece. But all animosity aside, the new 5kx release in 2020 with a fixed smooth steel bezel and smaller 40mm case might just have been the best Seiko 5 release of the year. With a 100m water resistance and no timing bezel, it is now a proper sports watch (not a dive or sports style watch) in its own right.
The design will instantly remind you of the Tudor black bay 36 and the Rolex explorer (or even the Omega Railmaster too) and to be honest, that’s not really such a bad thing. The one we’re looking at today, the SRPE55K1 also known as the DresSKX is as classically correct in its design as a sports watch should be. It features a stainless-steel case and bracelet, comfortable 40mm case, bold hands and markers (that are of course coated generously in lume).
If you couldn’t already tell, the DresSKX is still a lot of fun to have on the wrist. Powered by the tried and tested 4r36 caliber offering a useful day-date complication, 3Hz frequency and a modest 41 hours of power reserve, it unsurprisingly ticks a lot of boxes for what enthusiasts are looking for in a modern sports watch. All in all, if you’re looking for a budget-friendly vintage styled sports watch but aren’t looking to sink that much money into an Explorer, Railmaster or even a Black Bay 36 yet, the SRPE55K1 is going to be the best place to put your money at.
Key Features
- Polished stainless-steel case
- 4r36 self-winding movement with day-date function
- Protected by immensely durable mineral crystal glass
- Water Resistance - 10 bars
- 40mm case diameter
The Year Wrapped Up
So that’s it, the finest and most attainable Japanese watch releases from 2020. Granted, it may not have been the best year, but its certainly given us some of the nicest watches we’ve seen so far from the 3 manufactures. Whether you’re looking for a luxurious performance diver, a refined and functional sports watch, a stunning vintage re-issue or just an everyday beater of a tool watch, you’ll certainly be very happy with any of the watches on the list today. That said, we and we’re sure you lot too, are undoubtedly looking forward to what’s in store for us, both horologically and personally.
